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“Why yes, it is,” Peter confirmed. “And over there we have hippie in a knit cap playing guitar.” He paused for a moment, contemplating the music. “It’s remarkable how tone deaf this guy is. Just remarkable.”
But we listened, and we didn’t rip his throat out, or cook him and eat him. Which is more than I can say for some people.
Golden Bay is a very tolerant place now, much more so than it used to be when it was called Murderer’s Bay. You can take classes in yoga, permaculture and tarot cards. You can buy a wooden yurt for three hundred thousand dollars, or a didgeridoo for fifty bucks. You can sit under a tree all day and ruin old Eagles hits, and no one will bother you except a couple of sarcastic Americans who smell weird because they live in a van.
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As it turned out, this was a very bad move.
You’re not actually supposed to respond to the wero, the traditional Maori challenge. If someone drops a leaf or a feather, you should pick it up, but otherwise you should act very meek and respectful and try not to piss anyone off. The whole purpose of the ceremony is to find out if you’re up to no good, and if you respond to a trumpet call with a fanfare of your own, you’ve just made a declaration of war.
Tasman, of course, knew nothing about this. Before anyone had a chance to react, the Maori warriors overwhelmed his crew, smashing them in the necks with their taiohae, beating their brains out, and generally unleashing a world of hurt on the unsuspecting Dutchmen. They killed four, dragging their bodies to shore where they were presumably roasted and eaten.
Tasman, needless to say, got the hell out of there. And no white man dared set foot in New Zealand for another 127 years.
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Tommy’s an extremely handsome, friendly guy who happens to own a very good restaurant in town. And he spent seventeen glamorous years traveling the world with the King of Pop, retiring at 35 so he could slow down and enjoy life with his lover. In the late nineties, when his boyfriend emigrated to New Zealand, Tommy came along as the “domestic partner.” Yup, that’s right. More than a decade ago, New Zealand granted gay partners the same rights as married straight people. If anyone had tried to pass a law like that in the States, they’d probably have been roasted and eaten.
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Megan is an Auckland artist who now lives in Nelson, and her medium is wool. She makes boobs from wool, Jesus from wool, and she’s even knitted a little brown turd, nestled on a blanket. She calls it Happy Poo.
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Surely she must get hate mail? I asked her. Surely people must tell her she’s a sicko?
“Oh, you don't do that,” she corrected me. “You say, oh that's nice. I like the colours.”
She looked a little dejected. “Feedback is so rare. Maybe I should be more proactive and ask people what they think. But then, a lot of people are scared to express what they think.”
Disappointing for an artist, but perhaps less confrontation is a good thing. Just ask Abel Tasman.
Are you sure those dolphins are playing? It kind of looks like all of them are writhing in agony as the sea boils and churns from the molten lava pouring in off of those exploding volcanos over on the left. Not to mention the moon appears to be about to crash into the earth, causing current anomalies and the waves to break in the wrong direction...
ReplyDeleteHighly enjoyable again. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteMarkus
The brain worms are eating you up.
ReplyDeleteI love the way that you combine your current travel experience with those who have lived in New Zealand for a while, and with those who traveled there hundreds of years earlier. Looks beautiful and sounds great... well except for exploration early on, not so great!
ReplyDeleteWrite something about a 'sad poo'...please!
ReplyDeleteReally, um, interesting post :)
ReplyDelete